Czestochowa: The Soul of Poland - Day 13

After coffee and pastry at a small cafe across the square, our friendly and knowledgeable guide Marta Chmielowska picked us up at 8am for the 2 hr drive to Czestochowa, 114km north and west of Krakow.

In the 13th century village of Czestochowa is the Black Madonna Monastery rising above Jasna Gora (Bright) Hill. Nearly 5 million pilgrims flock here every year, 200,000 of them traveling on foot!  While visiting the sanctuary, you are immersed in an atmosphere of sincere religious piety. 

The monastery, founded in 1382 is surrounded by fortifications to protect it from pillagers. In 1384 the monks were given the famous icon of the Black Madonna by the local Duke. According to legend the icon of the virgin was painted by St Luke, but was probably painted in Byzantium around the 6C. 

In 1655, the monks paraded the icon around the ramparts in  front of the invading Swedish army. As tradition goes, her miraculous intervention halted the Swedish invasion. 

The exterior of the monastery

The Black Madonna is emblematic of the spiritual heart of Poland. 

Black Madonna up close and without the jewel encrusted ceremonial covering.  No flash allowed - pretty dark!

Local children preparing for their first communion 

Beautiful organ

Very emotional religious art by Duda-Gracz. One of 14 in the monastery depicting issues and events in Polish history intertwined with religious imagery.

In addition to the Black Madonna there are many artifacts and memorabilia related to the recently canonized Pope John Paul II, Poland's native son.

On the way home, we passed through Ojcow National Park, famous for limestone caves and a couple 14th century castles (some baroque elements were added to this one later). 

And a wooden country chapel built in 1901 when this part of Poland was ruled by Russia. 

It seems that we just can't stay away from our favorite Krakow restaurant, Polskie Smaki. It's close to our hotel and offers authentic, tasty Polish cuisine at reasonable prices to a mostly local clientele, so we never hear English (other than our own). 

Some of our faves as mentioned earlier: cold beet soup, sour soup (Zurek), and pierogi (Polish stuffed dumplings) which, along with a local beer make for a pleasant and satisfying meal. 

Ray, ever the innovator, addednhis dumplings to his sour soup with a dash of Tabasco to create a Polish Won Ton Soup-like dish. He will be opening a Polish fusion restaurant in Ft Collins!